If you are searching for the elusive quetzal, the beautiful national bird of Guatemala, then the region surrounding Cobán, known as the Verapaces, is the place you’re most likely to see it in Guatemala. Formed from a massive limestone plateau that has eroded over the ages, the area is undermined by huge caves and underground caverns with magnificent hanging stalactites and stalagmites. Worshipped by the Maya, these caves are gloriously intricate, with pools of turquoise water and slender limestone bridges. A great place to be based to see the area is the city of Cobán and although the accommodation is simple here there are thundering rivers, hills clad in cardamom and coffee, museums celebrating the Mayan culture and the quetzal reserve to explore.