For centuries Alexandria was arguably the most important city in the world, at the heart of developments in sciences and philosophy, and repository of the greatest collection of knowledge in the world, the famous Library. For such a significant place, precious little of the old Alexandria remains: just Pompey’s Pillar and the catacombs as well as assorted artefacts in the Graeco-Roman museum. It has been replaced by a modern city where the pace of life is quite gentle, and a Mediterranean air of relaxation pervades. Whilst not endowed with monuments it is a likeable place to spend time, and a good base for exploring the north of Egypt, or perhaps just strolling through the gardens of the Montazah Palace.