Like any other capital Tehran has its fair share of problems. On some days the traffic can seem like a glacial flow, but do not let this negative image blot out the many positives of a visit here. There is nowhere better in Iran to get an overview of Persian history and culture. The museums here are amongst the best in the Middle East and are an essential part of any visit. The pick of them is probably the Carpet Museum, though the National Museum of Iran and the National Jewels Museum are fantastic to stroll through.
To the north of the capital are the Elburz Mountains and the Caspian Sea littoral. Heading west, the city of Tabriz is home to some of the world’s greatest carpets and a base to explore the surrounding region, including the village of Kandovan where the entire population lives in caves. Between Tehran and the Iraqi border are the Kurdish provinces, full of precipitous mountain villages, stark and haunting scenery and a culture that has weathered the vicissitudes of history for thousands of years.