History
Antarctica’s existence was theorised by the ancient Greeks, who argued that the world would tip over if there wasn’t a large mass of land to the south. Little did they realise that the White Continent’s landmass was larger than Australia or Europe, spreading out over the sea in shelves of ice the size of France and Spain.
Antarctica wasn’t actually seen until 1820, and the early tales of wildlife with no fear of man quickly sparked an animal gold-rush, with whalers and sealhunters setting up smoky settlements on the Antarctic coast. The interior remained a mystery, an unearthly ice desert with, at its heart, the South Pole.
At the turn of the 20th century the race to the Pole saw some of the world’s most heroic feats of exploration and endurance, timber ships, tweed jackets and packs of huskies, sepia-lit in the dawn of the media age. Scott, Amundsen and Shackleton are amongst those whose feats of endurance and gentlemanly heroism still resonate today.
Icebergs
Antarctica’s ice comprises 70% of the world’s fresh water, a dense coat of white up to four kilometres thick.
The sheer weight of this ice forces the Antarctic continent down below sea level and even affects the shape of the globe, making the planet slightly pear-shaped. Where visitors see ice is as it breaks free from the edge of Antarctica or calves off from glaciers into the sea.
Don’t fill up your camera on the first iceberg you see: changing hues with countless shades of blue, icebergs can be stunningly beautiful, with different shapes and sizes evoking faces and features, sailing serenely through the southern waters.
Every visitor soon becomes something of an expert in identifying different iceberg types, from low-lying ‘growlers’ that hover about the ship’s waterline to flat-topped tabular icebergs freshly broken from pack ice.
Some icebergs just look like land: the largest recorded (in 1956) was over 300 kilometres long and 90 wide, but that, as they say, was just the tip of the iceberg. Only a tenth of any iceberg can be seen above the water.
Practicalities
The hardships of the early explorers are far away from the modern expedition cruise vessels. Even the most basic ex-Russian research ship will provide comfortable, private cabins, excursions by zodiac and hot chocolate when you return, while other ships, sometimes converted navy vessels, offer increasingly sophisticated standards that often approach luxury. You will need to have – or find – your sea legs for the journey across the Drake Passage: the Atlantic Convergence can produce some very rough sea s, though you may escape with just a gentle rolling. Don’t let this put you off, it is a useful rite of passage that serves to accentuate just how remote and inaccessible the region is.
Once in Antarctica conditions will vary, but it is often windy, with katabatic winds fuelled by cold dense air descending on the Pole and blowing out. Your exact cruise itinerary will depend on that which your boat has lodged with the authorities, and then may change in accordance with the weather and the ice, but highlights should include squeezing through the Lemaire Channel, bathing in the geothermal waters of Deception Island, meeting penguins and whale watching.
Environment
Audley only work with companies in Antarctica who are committed to ensuring that any impact on the environment is minimised. Preliminary reports suggest that tourism has not had a detrimental effect on this unspoilt continent, due predominantly to the exemplary attitude of the expedition operators, who ensure that all visitors behave in the appropriate manner with regard to the environment.
The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), of which all companies we work with are members or associate members, establishes a clear code of conduct forships visiting the area. Though there is no Antarctic Government as such, the Antarctic Treaty (which came into force in 1961) is signed by 46 countries and its objectives are simple yet unique in international relations: peace, science, and to set aside any disputes over territorial sovereignty. This means Antarctica can and will remain fully protected as a natural reserve.