The bustling ‘White City’ of Arequipa rests in the shadow of ice-capped volcanoes, their peaks the tombs of young Inca girls sacrificed to the Gods, and their pale rocks used by the Spanish in the construction of the city below. Arequipa is a useful place to begin the acclimatisation process, but is also interesting to explore in its own right. The highlight is the Santa Catalina convent, a miniature city within a city. This peaceful haven, with russet and blue walled streets lined with bright geraniums, is still, 400 years after it was built, home to an order of nuns.