The bright blue waters of Lake Titicaca ripple across the altiplano (high plain) of Peru and Bolivia. Its shores and islands, lapped by the chilly waters, are a land of legends, ancient customs and colourful dress, with the locals holding firmly to their pre-conquest traditions. The town of Puno is the ideal base for exploring the sights of the area. Visit Sillustani to see some of the stone burial towers (“chullpas”) that have dotted the shores since pre-Inca times, and go on board the Yavari, a Victorian steamship that was carried by mule in pieces up to the lake over 100 years ago and is now being lovingly restored to take passengers again. Wrap up warmly and take to the deep waters by motorboat and as Puno disappears behind you the immense snow-capped Cordillera Real range of mountains in Bolivia will appear on the horizon. Sail to the floating Uros Islands which feel springy underfoot as they are made from the tortora reed that grows on the lake. Further out, on Taquile Island and Amantani Island, take a walk past terraces of lima beans, maize and potatoes tended by shyly smiling locals, and learn about the origins of their unusual traditional dress and farming methods from the islanders themselves. For a more unusual experience we can also arrange homestays with the local families here.