Trains, Planes & Pedal Power
Originally published 14 November 2011
Rail
One of the most authentic options for travelling long distances in most countries is the train, and China is no exception. Ranging from decidedly tired and cramped to fantastically clean, modern and spacious, Chinese trains are a microcosm of everyday domestic life and social structure. Most popular long-distance routes are served by trains that fall somewhere between the two extremes and are a brilliant way to see the country and its people.
China has a few exceptional train journeys worth seeking out. One of these is the magnificent Lhasa Express. This memorable three-day trip from Beijing traverses the country and travels past some of China’s most spectacular landscapes before heading for the snowy peaks of Tibet along the highest railway in the world.
Another phenomenal experience is a ride on one of China’s growing network of high speed trains. These span from short trips on the Shanghai Maglev (the fastest passenger train in the world with speeds of up to 431 kilometres per hour) to the incredible new Shanghai to Beijing bullet train. This new, high-speed service opened in June and reduces the journey time from 12 hours to just 4 hours 48 minutes for the 1,305 kilometre journey. The bullet trains are estimated to carry up to 220,000 passengers each day, running as often as every five minutes at peak times.
Not to be overlooked either, are the Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian train journeys, which cross huge swathes of the Chinese countryside, into Mongolia and on to Russia. These journeys take several days and can be undertaken in simple overnight sleepers or luxurious, privately operated trains.
Boat
China’s extensive river system was for centuries the best travel option for emperors and traders alike, but with the development of the Chinese road and rail network its popularity faded. For visitors, river travel is still a wonderful option, offering a different perspective on often remote and dramatic scenery.
Various cruisers run up and down the Yangtze River, providing an excellent viewpoint from which to survey the mighty Three Gorges. The best of these are Victoria Cruises and Sanctuary, which offer comfortable accommodation, excellent facilities and interesting side excursions along the route.
A far shorter scenic cruise is possible on the Li River, which winds its way through the towering karst peaks of Guangxi province in the south of China. The journey from Guilin to Yangshuo takes roughly four hours and passes idyllic rice paddies and small villages set amid soaring limestone pinnacles – truly the China of your imagination.
Two Wheels
Despite the growth of car use in China, the bicycle remains a popular way of getting around. In both China’s fast-paced cities and its sleepy rural villages, perhaps the best way to truly get to know your surroundings is to take to two wheels. Witness local life unfolding as you cycle through the narrow maze of hutongs in Beijing, traverse hundreds of years of history from a perfect vantage point on Xian’s ancient city walls, or visit tiny villages accessed by narrow paths between paddy fields in the lush Yangshuo countryside. Bicycles allow the traveller to see and experience more than any other mode of transport and offer the luxury of appreciating your surroundings in an unhurried manner.
Air
Unless you have unlimited time on your hands, some internal flights within China are inevitable. Although less of an experience than other modes of transport, air travel saves a lot of time. For example, the distance between Hong Kong in the south and Beijing in the north is roughly comparable to the distance between London and Morocco and not all areas enjoy the luxury of high speed train services. However, airports across China are clean and modern with safe and reliable airlines operating flights all over the country.
Memorable Journey
One of the most enduring memories I have from China is that of the train journeys, of which I took far too many to count. What made me look forward to every trip was the people. Despite living and working in China for over a year, on every journey I learnt something new about Chinese social customs. On one particularly memorable journey from Guilin to Shanghai I was in the highly unusual position of being placed next to a group of mourning Chinese evangelical Christians singing dirge-like hymns and wailing intermittently. Despite their obvious grief, however, they were temporarily cheered by the sight of a foreigner and offered me endless ‘hallelujahs’, sunflower seeds and chicken feet. I left the train feeling humbled.
Your first time visit to China
Your first trip to China is often enough to ensure a lifelong love of the country and engender many future visits. Although it is impossible to see everything in the space of just one trip, there are some definite highlights that shouldn’t be missed.
Start with the bright lights, sky-scrapers and colonial riverside of Shanghai, then take the new high-speed bullet train north to Beijing. Here, you can step back in time as you cycle through the hutong district, wander through the majestic Forbidden City, marvel at the sprightliness of Beijing’s senior citizens in the Temple of Heaven Park and gaze in awe as the Great Wall snakes into the mountainous distance.
Then take an overnight train southwest to Xian and witness the incredible Terracotta Warriors, before flying south to Guilin for the Li River cruise to Yangshuo, which wanders through spectacular karst scenery. Explore the region and its idyllic rice paddies by bicycle or relax on a bamboo raft as you float down the beautiful Yulong River amid the towering limestone crags.
Finally, drive north to the Dragon’s Backbone rice terraces of Longji, before flying to Hong Kong to spend a few days in this fast-paced global city.
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