"I thought I knew the Middle East pretty well, and then I went to Syria. It cast any previously held claims of expertise into a pretty amateurish light.
Syria has everything for those who are interested in the history of the region, and as there are still relatively few people visiting you can often find yourself alone at some fantastic sites. And that is what happened to me at Marqab castle where I had one of the largest Crusader castles in the world all to myself.
Deserted apart from a gatekeeper, I was really able to piece the castle together in my mind. Devoid of signs, guiding notes or any kind of labelled description, my inner schoolboy ran wild with images of sieges, Saracens and treachery. What I thought was a gruesome torture chamber was probably in reality just a simple pantry, but it was a really great day in what was a fantastic trip overall.
Rounded off with some great food, charming people and the rest of the sights, this trip made me realise what a first-time visitor to Syria has been missing."