The imposing cliffs and gentle valleys of Terelj are a wilderness refuge within reach of Ulaanbaatar. The forested slopes are home to moose and brown bear; the skies are filled with the silhouettes of hunting birds; the pure headwaters of the Tuul River abound with whitefish and the Taimen, Mongolia's indigenous salmon.
Terelj can be enjoyed from a motor vehicle, although the more energetic will find hidden valleys at the end of a sedate guided horse-ride.
Deep in the park, rock massifs lead the eye down a dizzying descent to the Gunjiin Sum, a remote temple of the early 17th century. The opportunity is here to visit nomads in their traditional Ger tents — you may be fortunate enough to share the hospitality (and milk vodka) of these local people.