48 hours in Buenos Aires
Evita, tango and steak — experience this trio at its best, along with the Argentinian capital’s many other personalities, in only two days.
After breakfast, meet your guide for a cycling tour of the city’s standard landmarks. There’s less traffic at this hour — Argentinians sleep in — so you’ll see highlights such as Recoleta Cemetery (Eva Perón’s final resting place) in relative calm. Stop and smell the roses, literally, in the Rosedal, one of the best city parks.
End your tour at the Casa Rosada, where Evita would address doting crowds, then walk for ten minutes to Puerto Madero, a gentrified waterside barrio, for a long lunch.
Take a private tour of the city’s lesser-known architectural jewels. I love the Palacio Barolo: its design is inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy. Head to the top floor for one of the best views of Buenos Aires.
La Casa Rosada
Your tour ends in the barrio of Constitución. Recharge with a coffee and a medialuna, a buttery croissant.
Hop in a traditional taxicab and return to your hotel for a pre-dinner siesta. Buenos Aires’ taxi drivers are notoriously chatty — whether you speak Spanish or not.
Dinnertime. Plump for asado, an Argentinian barbecue, or if you’re vegetarian, go to one of the many Italian restaurants — an example of the country’s lasting influence on Argentina — such as La Cucina Paradiso, one of my go-to eateries.
Enter a milonga (dance hall) to witness tango at its most authentic. You’re free to simply watch, but you can also take part. The dancing goes on until the early hours.
Tango in La Boca
Browse in El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a sumptuous bookstore.Argentina specialist Olivia
Make like the locals and have a lie-in. Then, assuming you’re here on a Sunday, head to San Telmo Market to mill among its sea of vendors and peruse the craft stalls. You can have breakfast here: try a freshly squeezed fruit juice and churros. Dunk them in a generous pot of dulce de leche.
Travel to Mataderos Fair, a gaucho market on the city’s outskirts and also a fixture on Sundays. Expect folk music, dancing and horsemanship displays. For lunch, I suggest chorípan (sausage, bread and chimichurri).
Back in the city proper, stop for an exceptionally good raspberry ice cream at Rapa Nui.
Siesta o’clock again.
Time for an aperitif. For a quintessentially Argentine experience, find a table at any of the al fresco cafes in Plaza Serrano and watch the world go by. To really get into the spirit, throw in a good bottle of malbec.
Sit down at Casa Coupage for a multi-course dinner with wine pairing. It’s an elegant introduction to Argentinian cuisine.
San Telmo Market