What to do in Vietnam: our highlights guide

By Vietnam specialist Matthew

The karst seascape of Halong Bay, the wooden merchant houses of Hoi An, the restaurant-packed back alleys of Ho Chi Minh City… If I could describe my first trip to Vietnam in one word, it would be “variety”.

The scenery, culture, and food morph as you move down the length of the country: serrated peaks flatten into wide-open paddies, time-worn streets make way for modern boulevards, and subtle flavors become bolder and sweeter. That’s why I always recommend heading from north to south on a first-time trip. And, despite the country’s size, you can take in the highlights in around ten days.

Getting your bearings in Hanoi

Vietnam’s capital city is the starting point for most visitors. It’s easy to fly into, and a couple of days here will provide a cultural and historical grounding for the rest of your trip.

For your first full day in Hanoi, I think a privately guided tour is the way to go (even if only for a local’s advice on crossing the hectic, scooter-rammed roads). Your route will be shaped around what you’d like to see and learn, but I suggest starting at Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, an imposing structure that entombs the Vietnamese nationalist leader. Your guide can tell you how “Uncle Ho” led the fight against Japanese, French, and US powers, which ultimately contributed to the country’s independence.

The story of colonialism and war in Vietnam will be evident in every city you visit, including Hanoi. Your guide might take you on a stroll along the affluent avenues of the French Quarter or into the museum of the former Hoa Lo Prison, once known by US prisoners of war as the “Hanoi Hilton”. But this is just one piece of Vietnam’s diverse history, so I suggest ending your tour at the Museum of Ethnology, just outside the city, where you’ll uncover the unique cultures, beliefs, languages, and stories of Vietnam’s 54 ethnic groups.

Insider’s tip: I can time your stay in Hanoi to coincide with the weekend, when the streets bordering Hoan Kiem Lake are closed to traffic and transform into a hub of street-food vendors, dance performances, and folk games. I love taking a stroll at night, when lights illuminate the lake’s central “floating” tower.

A cruise to Halong Bay’s quieter neighbor, Lan Ha Bay

The lure of Halong Bay is its dramatic karst scenery — huge limestone islands jutting out of the water, which you can cruise around in a traditional junk. It’s no surprise that this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of Vietnam’s most popular highlights, but this inevitably draws in the crowds. For a more tranquil alternative, with scenery that’s just as striking, I suggest a cruise to Lan Ha Bay instead.

Boarding your traditional Vietnamese junk at Halong City, you’ll voyage through an emerald panorama of islets, sea caves, and arches — an experience magnified by the relative quiet. You can also take to the water and navigate the islands by kayak to reach lesser-visited beaches and caves, or step foot ashore to explore one of the many island villages.

Insider’s tip: For a wholly different vantage of the karsts, you could take a scenic seaplane flyover, which takes off and lands on the water. While in flight, your pilot will gently dip the wings to give you the clearest views of mossy-looking formations below.

Hue’s royal history & cuisine

Scholars, Mandarins, musicians, and emperors… This is Vietnam’s imperial city and a former capital ruled by the 19th-century Nguyen Dynasty. The nobility not only left behind mausoleums, palaces, temples, and libraries, but also a legacy of great food. I can arrange a tour for you that combines both its history and cuisine.

Gliding along the tree-lined streets of Hue in your own personal rickshaw, you’ll stop at bars, restaurants, and street-food stalls chosen by your guide for their authenticity. You might sample Huda Beer (a brew made with water from the city’s Perfume River), bahn khoai (a crispy turmeric-infused pancake dish topped with seafood or pork belly), and che Hue (a sweet soup-like dessert that has over 100 colorful varieties).

Your guide will also take you into the historic citadel, where you can wander along its narrow lanes, pausing to take in the palaces, ponds, and temples that lie within its walls.

Insider’s tip: The leafy garden district of Hue is where royal descendants and Mandarins once lived. The terracotta-roof houses are well spaced out and surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens. You can get a taste of nobility by checking into Ancient Hue Garden Houses, a collection of restored homes reminiscent of the era, with dark-wood accents, carved pillars, and lotus ponds.

Tailor shops & cycling tours in Hoi An

A former trading port on Vietnam’s central coast, Hoi An’s days as a merchants’ city are still evident in the Chinese, Japanese, French, and Dutch architecture you’ll encounter as you explore. Timber-framed shophouses, tea warehouses, and temples make up a lot of the city, but there’s one type of shop that takes the lion’s share: tailors.

You can’t walk down a street without spotting one, and I suggest making the most of them if you’d like to revamp your wardrobe. The fabrics are as good as you’ll find anywhere, but suits and dresses are made for a very reasonable price. Turnaround is quick: your first fitting within 24 hours and a finished garment a day later.

While you wait, I suggest taking in the city’s sights by bike. Cycle down any of the alleyways that lead off the main thoroughfares, and you could end up by the river, at a market, or in a cafe or restaurant that’s hidden away. I can also arrange for you to take a guided cycling tour of the surrounding countryside, where you’ll see local handicrafts like mat weaving and coracle boat building in action.

Insider’s tip: On the journey between Hue and Hoi An, I’ll ask your driver to stop along Hai Van Pass, one of the most scenic roads in Vietnam. It winds through densely vegetated mountains that hug the South China Sea. Pause near Lang Co Bay for views of its honey-colored crescent. If the timing’s right, you also might spot the train that snakes through the greenery just above it.

Ho Chi Minh City from the back of a Vespa

Often still called Saigon by locals, Ho Chi Minh City is a modern metropolis with a thriving culinary scene, influenced by its multicultural past. Zipping around the city on the back of a Vespa is one of my top-recommended things to do in Vietnam and one of the best ways to soak up Ho Chi Minh City’s sights, smells, and tastes.

Just as night falls, your guide will expertly navigate the busy streets, weaving in and out of back alleys lined with eateries, cafes, and bars, where you can sample some of the city’s best dishes. My guide took me to restaurants where I was the only international visitor, so the food was authentic. I particularly enjoyed the banh mi, which had the perfect balance of crisp crust and chewy bread, as well as com tam (broken rice served with grilled pork) and goi cuon (fresh spring rolls dipped in a silky peanut sauce). It was a day that cemented my insatiable love for Vietnamese cuisine.

Insider’s tip: Even if you’re not staying there, head to Hôtel des Arts’ rooftop bar for drinks at sundown. Its 24th-floor elevation and glass balustrades give you uninterrupted views across the city as a blue-purple glow emanates from the illuminated skyline.

Is it easy to get around Vietnam?

There are regular domestic flights between various major cities in Vietnam, including Hanoi and Hue, making travel easy and flexible. For shorter distances, I’ll arrange for private drivers to take you from place to place, so you can soak up the landscapes: mountain passes, rice paddies, and crescent bays, to name just a few. If you’d like a few days on the coast, consider a train journey from Da Nang (near Hoi An) to Quy Nhon aboard the luxurious Vietage.

How much time should I spend in Vietnam?

I like to stay in each city for at least a couple of days to get a real taste of local life, so I’d set aside around 9–12 days in total. This gives you plenty of time to take in Vietnam’s highlights, from north to south, without rushing from one place to the next. Equally, you could extend your trip by a week to go hiking in the northern hills, unwind along the coast, or cruise the Mekong Delta near Ho Chi Minh City.

When should I go to Vietnam?

January to April is the best time to go to Vietnam, as long as you avoid the busyness of New Year and Lunar New Year. The country’s length means you’ll find different climates, whether you’re in the north, central, or southern regions, but these months offer fairly dry conditions everywhere. For cooler weather, go in January or February, or if you don’t mind the heat, opt for March or April instead.

• Find out more about the best time to visit Vietnam