Highlights of Costa Rica for first-time visitors

By Costa Rica specialist Nik

Costa Rica may be a compact country (around two and a half times smaller than England), but it’s among the most biodiverse on Earth, making it one of the best destinations for a wildlife-focused trip.

Thick forest canopies protect all manner of flora and fauna, from red-eyed tree frogs to three-toed sloths, while turtles come to nest along the Caribbean and Pacific-facing beaches. Cloudforests, volcanoes, and twisting rivers provide ample opportunity for adventure-seekers, too. And you can cross off almost all of Costa Rica’s highlights — including the ones I’ve mentioned below — in around two weeks.

Cruising the flooded forests of Tortuguero National Park

On Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, Tortuguero National Park hosts a network of marshy islands and wetlands that greet you with a cacophony of sounds — barking howler monkeys, screeching macaws, and the splash of caiman hunting along the river.

The region is only accessible by boat or plane, and I find the best views are enjoyed from the water. As you glide along the flooded forest canals with your guide, your attention is pulled in every direction: spider monkeys dangle from the canopies, kingfishers dive for prey, and basilisk lizards dart across the water, earning them the nickname “Jesus Christ lizards”.

Beyond the forest, between July and October, the park's protected shoreline welcomes green, giant leatherback, hawksbill, and loggerhead turtles, which lumber up the sand where they were born to lay their eggs. I recommend taking advantage of your lodge’s nighttime trips to the beach to see them in action. As you search, a naturalist guide will tell you about the dramatic journey, from nest to sea, each hatchling embarks on to survive.

Insider’s tip: Stay at Mawamba Lodge to experience the region’s only floating restaurant, where you can eat out on the water, drifting gently along the canals. I prefer to dine after nightfall, when you can see only the sparkle of lights from the remote town of Tortuguero in the distance, as well as the stars overhead.

Above the treetops in Arenal

Until recently, Arenal Volcano was the most active volcano in Central America. Although it’s no longer active, it remains an impressive, almost perfectly conical peak, and is the heart of Arenal National Park. I get the most thrills seeing it from an elevated position above the rainforest canopy, whizzing down a zip-line. For a few moments, it feels like it’s just you and the volcano, before you descend into the trees.

Another lofty vantage point to make the most of is the Arenal Hanging Bridges, a web of walkways built high into the canopy. You’ll be much closer to many tree-dwelling animals and birds here than on the forest floor. Once I saw an eyelash pit viper wrapped around a branch, the tell-tale scales protruding above its eyes giving it a pseudo-inquisitive facial expression.

If you’d prefer to keep your feet firmly on the ground, I suggest a nature walk to see Arenal’s sleepiest residents: sloths. Armed with a telescope and binoculars, your guide will scour the trees for two- and three-toed sloths whose algae-coated bodies keep them well hidden in the foliage.

Insider’s tip: After a day on your feet, I recommend soaking your limbs in one of the many springs warmed by the region’s namesake volcano, trading a canopy of trees for a blanket of stars. Some can get very busy, but stay at Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa, and you can unwind in their private springs in peace.

Spotting the resplendent quetzal in Monteverde

Costa Rica’s best-known cloudforest, Monteverde, straddles the Central Mountain Range. It’s the last substantial pocket of primary cloudforest in Central America, and the birdlife here is prolific.

The resplendent quetzal, with its bright green plumage, red breast, and long, trailing tail is one that never fails to pique my excitement on guided nature walks. It’s particularly captivating in flight, when its tail feathers undulate as if moving through water. Other species you might see include hummingbirds, northern emerald toucanets, and three-wattled bellbirds, whose distinctive honk bounces through the trees at an impressive volume.

I particularly love venturing into the cloudforest at night, when a whole different cast of animals takes to the stage. I once saw an arboreal porcupine snuffling in the undergrowth, its eyes shining in the halo of my guide’s flashlight. This is also the best time to spy red-eyed tree frogs, tarantulas, pit vipers, and all manner of creepy crawlies.

Insider’s tip: The San Lucas Treetop Dining Experience is elevated in more ways than one. Seated in a private glass cabin above the tree canopy, you’ll taste an elaborate seven-course meal that marries seasonal ingredients with storytelling about Costa Rican heritage.

On the coast: Manuel Antonio or Santa Teresa

I always recommend including some beach time in a Costa Rica trip, especially if it’s your first time in the country and you’ve packed in a lot of activities.

Manuel Antonio, on the Central Pacific Coast, is perhaps Costa Rica’s most popular beach destination, its golden sands and turquoise waters backing onto the jungle of the adjoining national park. Go here if you want to still see plenty of wildlife in between relaxing. I can arrange for you to take a boat ride into the mangrove wetlands with a naturalist guide, who’ll point out the resident wildlife as you cruise: herons, kingfishers, white-faced monkeys, and anteaters are among their ranks.

If you’re willing to travel further and put your binoculars down for a while, you’ll be rewarded with fewer visitors on the Northern Pacific Coast. The Nicoya Peninsula, where Santa Teresa Beach lies, remains relatively untouched compared to Manuel Antonio. The area is known for its surf culture, and you can spend time with a private instructor to learn how to get up on the board and ride the waves. But, I wouldn’t hold it against you if you simply wanted to kick back on the sand with a cocktail in hand.

Insider’s tip: Arenas del Mar is the only hotel in Manuel Antonio with direct beach access, and despite the busy town being within walking distance, it’s ensconced within a private forest reserve, where you can spot sloths and iguanas on guided walks (and sometimes while you’re just relaxing at the resort).

Wildlife & marine life on the remote Osa Peninsula

Being out of the way has its benefits. The Osa Peninsula, which juts out from the southwestern corner of the country, shelters 2.5% of the world’s biodiversity. Much of the region is protected by Corcovado National Park, which provides a haven for rare mammals, including tapirs, anteaters, and ocelots.

For easy access to the park (and nearby snorkelling opportunities), stay at Corcovado Wilderness Lodge, which sits in a private reserve just on the edge. You don’t even have to leave the lodge’s sweeping grounds to see an array of animals, from capuchins to toucans and coatis. That said, an early-morning birdwatching hike will give you the best chance to witness the bright plumage of the scarlet macaw — the national park is one of the species’ last strongholds.

Meanwhile, during a snorkelling trip to Caño Island, you can see tropical fish darting between pristine coral reefs. Look out for the neon-yellow flash of a king angelfish or the rainbow shimmer of a blue-barred parrotfish as you swim. You might encounter turtles and rays, too.

Insider’s tip: It’s possible to spot humpback whales throughout the year on boat tours, but your chances increase during specific months. Between October and April, they migrate down from the Arctic, while from July to November, they migrate up from the Antarctic.

Is it easy to get around Costa Rica?

Taking private cars is the simplest way to travel around Costa Rica, but self-driving is becoming increasingly popular. It’s safe, convenient, and well-suited to both families and anyone looking to go a little more off-piste. I’ll give you all the directions you need ahead of your trip, so you don’t have to worry about route planning. There are also plenty of domestic flights connecting various regions, as well as boat and ferry options in some parts of the country.

How much time should I spend in Costa Rica?

Two weeks, give or take a couple of days, is the amount of time you’ll need to visit Costa Rica’s main wildlife hotspots and enjoy some beach relaxation, too. For a shorter visit (just over a week), I suggest splitting your time between Arenal Volcano and Monteverde, with a couple of days on the coast in Manuel Antonio. Alternatively, if you have more time, you can visit places that fly under the radar, like the cloudforest of San Gerardo de Dota, which sees far fewer visitors than Monteverde.

When should I go to Costa Rica?

Costa Rica has a dozen microclimates, so you’ll likely encounter some rain whenever you go. For the driest and brightest weather, visit between November and May. But don’t write off July and August, when the Caribbean coast has short, sharp showers — that’s when you can see nesting turtles. The only months to avoid are September and October, when the rains are more persistent and heavy.

• Find out more about the best time to visit Costa Rica